Chemical exfoliants like AHA (alpha hydroxy acids) and BHA (beta hydroxy acids) have revolutionized skincare, offering powerful solutions for acne, hyperpigmentation, and aging concerns. However, these potent ingredients aren’t suitable for everyone. Understanding who should avoid AHA BHA products can prevent irritation, breakouts, and long-term skin damage.

Understanding AHA and BHA: The Basics

Before identifying who should avoid these ingredients, let’s understand what makes them so effective—and potentially problematic.

Alpha hydroxy acids include glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mandelic acid. These water-soluble acids work on the skin’s surface, removing dead cells and improving texture. They’re particularly effective for addressing fine lines, dark spots, and sun damage.

Beta hydroxy acids, primarily salicylic acid, are oil-soluble and penetrate deeper into pores. This makes BHA ideal for treating acne, reducing excess oil, and clearing pore congestion.

Who Should Avoid AHA BHA Products?

1. People with Extremely Sensitive Skin

If your skin reacts to most products with redness, burning, or persistent irritation, chemical exfoliants may be too harsh. Studies show that 15-20% of people with sensitive skin experience adverse reactions to AHA concentrations above 5%.

Signs you have extremely sensitive skin:

• Frequent redness or flushing
• Burning sensation from mild products
• Persistent dryness despite moisturizing
• History of contact dermatitis

2. Those with Active Skin Conditions

Rosacea

People with rosacea should generally avoid both AHA and BHA. These acids can trigger flare-ups and worsen inflammation. The compromised skin barrier in rosacea patients makes them particularly vulnerable to chemical irritation.

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Eczema and Psoriasis

These conditions involve disrupted skin barriers that cannot tolerate the exfoliating action of chemical acids. Using AHA BHA on eczema or psoriasis patches can cause severe burning and delayed healing.

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Active Acne Lesions

While salicylic acid helps prevent acne, applying it to open, inflamed pimples can cause excessive dryness and irritation. Wait until active breakouts heal before introducing chemical exfoliants.

3. People Using Certain Medications

Tretinoin and Retinoid Users

Combining tretinoin or other prescription retinoids with AHA BHA can cause severe irritation, peeling, and photosensitivity. Dermatologists recommend waiting 3-6 months after starting retinoids before adding chemical exfoliants.

Oral Isotretinoin (Accutane)

Patients on isotretinoin should completely avoid chemical exfoliants. The medication already causes significant skin sensitivity and dryness—adding acids can lead to chemical burns.

Photosensitizing Medications

Certain antibiotics, diuretics, and antidepressants increase sun sensitivity. Since AHA makes skin more photosensitive, combining them creates a high risk of sun damage and hyperpigmentation.

4. Pregnant and Breastfeeding Women

While low concentrations of glycolic acid and lactic acid (under 10%) are generally considered safe during pregnancy, many dermatologists recommend avoiding chemical exfoliants altogether. High-concentration peeling solutions and salicylic acid products should definitely be avoided.

Common Disadvantages of AHA BHA Serums

Even for suitable candidates, chemical exfoliants can cause problems when used incorrectly:

Over-Exfoliation Syndrome

Using AHA BHA products too frequently can damage the skin barrier, leading to:

• Increased sensitivity
• Persistent redness
• Shiny, tight skin texture
• Paradoxical breakouts
• Enhanced melasma and dark spots

Purging Period

When you start using products like retinol, your skin may go through something called the purging period. This is a temporary phase where hidden clogged pores (also called microcomedones) are pushed to the surface more quickly than usual. As a result, you might notice more pimples, dryness, or flakiness than before. This can feel frustrating, but it’s actually a normal part of the process and usually means the product is working. Purging doesn’t last forever—it often clears up within 3 to 6 weeks. During this time, it’s important to be gentle with your skin. Use retinol in the correct concentration, apply a good moisturizer generously, and avoid mixing too many strong skincare products (like other acids or actives). With a little patience and proper care, your skin can adjust, the purging will pass, and you’ll start to see the healthier, clearer results you’re aiming for.

Photosensitivity

Both AHA and BHA increase sun sensitivity by up to 50%. Without proper sun protection, users risk developing new hyperpigmentation and premature aging—the very concerns they’re trying to address.

Safe Alternatives for Sensitive Individuals

If you fall into any of the above categories, consider these gentler options:

PHA (Polyhydroxy Acids)

With larger molecular structures, PHAs provide gentle exfoliation without penetrating as deeply. They’re suitable for sensitive skin and rosacea patients.

Enzyme Exfoliants

Papaya and pineapple enzymes offer mild exfoliation without the irritation risk of chemical acids.

Azelaic Acid

This multitasking ingredient addresses acne and hyperpigmentation while being gentle enough for sensitive skin and rosacea.

Niacinamide

This vitamin B3 derivative improves skin texture and reduces oiliness without exfoliating action.

How to Determine If AHA BHA Is Right for You

Before incorporating chemical exfoliants:

1. Patch Test : Apply product to a small area for 24-48 hours
2. Start Slowly : Begin with low concentrations (2-5%) once weekly
3. Monitor Reactions : Watch for persistent redness, burning, or increased sensitivity
4. Consult Professionals : Seek dermatologist guidance for personalized recommendations

The Importance of Personalized Skincare

Every person’s skin responds differently to active ingredients. What works brilliantly for one person might cause irritation in another. Factors like skin type, current routine, medications, and environmental conditions all influence how your skin tolerates chemical exfoliants.

Rather than experimenting with potentially irritating products, consider a personalized approach that accounts for your unique skin profile and concerns.

How Formulo Makes Chemical Exfoliation Work for You

At Formulo, we don’t believe in trial-and-error skincare. Every treatment kit we recommend is backed by dermatologists and designed for your exact skin needs—including whether chemical exfoliants like AHA and BHA are right for you.

Start by taking our simple Skin Quiz to help our dermatologists understand your skin better. We’ll assess your skin type, concerns, and sensitivities to create a prescription-grade kit that’s science-backed and delivered right to your doorstep. No guesswork, no irritation—just effective skincare tailored specifically for you.